Arpino
Or how to find peace by getting lost in time
They say stones hold the memory. They’ve been there long before us and will probably be there long after we’re gone.
In Arpino we have this thing called “Libro di pietra” (Stone book). It easily sums up what I’ve just said.
Arpinum is an ancient town, a very ancient one. Its walls are called “Cyclopean walls” since the boulders they’re made out of are so massive men or animals could not possibly have moved them. We’re talking 650 B.C. and historian are still debating about lifting techniques available at that time. When in Arpino you might want to know all about this history plot. You’ll probably learn what happened and who lived here during the last two thousand years. Cicero, Gaius Marius and many other great men and women who signed the book of human history. But as an Arpinate (citizen of Arpino, from the latin term Arpinàs-arpinàtis) I take a lot of things for granted. Truth is we can’t help feeling proud about our own town and most of all we would like to share our pride with the rest of the world.
To be honest every little town in Italy, from north to south, is amazing in its own way. Good people, small houses, simple way of life, old times social manners. So what makes Arpino so valuable? Well, I frankly don’t know. What I know is most of the people visiting fall in love instantaneously.
That’s weird because Cicero’s statue standing in the Piazza (central square and social hotspot) seems to be telling you to get out of town with is grumpy face, his ripped abdomen and his finger pointing far away. Legend says they only had a centurion body available for the statue so they just welded Cicero’s head on a Superman torso. Neverthless visitors keep taking group pictures at his feet with the same pose.
Maybe it’s the food. Ciociaria is still a mostly rural area with few industrial sites. That helped to keep traditions along generations, especially in the kitchen. In Christmas time you should definitely try “susamelli” and ”mostaccioli” or “pigna” pie when Easter is approaching. No tourist menu in Arpino’s restaurants. A bowl of sagne with beans, bacon (italian bacon aka “pancetta”) and wild asparaguses could seriously change your day.
Maybe it’s the air. On a sunny day Appenine mountains would lay in the distance behind Ladislaus’ Castle as if they were protecting it. In spring nature would come back to life with all kinds of green and smell. Olive trees standing everywhere like hair on a child’s head. You can basically take a walk in any direction and find a great view to please your eyes and warm your heart. A lot of people from abroad are coming to Arpino, some of them even bought and restored their own house. Among them you may find descendants of former and long-gone residents who left during the last century looking for fortune elsewhere. A wonderful way to claim back your roots after great sacrifices.
Maybe it’s the people. Arpino has only one main road crossing downtown. And it is also on the path of Via Benedicti (The Way of Saint Benedict). We are pretty much used to people walking by. So almost nobody is a stranger, or a suspect at least. Try engaging conversation in any of the local bars and you’ll know what I’m talking about. Every year Arpino will host Certamen Ciceronianum Arpinas, a latin translation competition for student from all around the world, and Gonfalone, six different races for the several neighborhood teams. In both occasions thousands of people gather, maybe not even aware of how precious real-life sharing is in the social network era.
Or maybe it’s all just in my head. Maybe my point of view is so biased that I can’t find any major flaw. No matter what you or I think. If you cannot find peace anywhere just try it here.
